Timeless Tails Rattery

Breeding Healthy, Sweet pet rats. Colors include: blue, russian blue, mink, black, biege, fawn and agouti and their dilutes. Markings include self, berkshire, hooded, down under, dalmations and other markings. I also breed Burmese & Siamese, mostly Black Eye Siamese, with the occasional Red Eye Siamese.  I will have both dumbo and standard ear babies in most litters. Fur types include Rex, Velveteen, Standard and Harley, with the occasional double curly coat.  There may be the occasional hairless and manx(tailess) as well but those are less likely to be produced. 

My name is Tiffany and I am currently located in Salt Lake City Utah.   I have always been surrounded by many animals as pets: dogs, cats, rabbits, guinea pigs, birds, fish, ferrets, hampsters, and rats!  I currently have 2 cats and of course my rats :)

I have had rats as pets for over 18 years now, and have been breeding my rats since November of 2002, as an official rattery. Rats are wonderful pets: they are sweet, love attention, love their "humans", are intelligent, can learn their names, and are small so they are suitable for apartment living.  They all have their own unique personalities.  I breed rats to help promote them as pets, provide better health and temperament then you typically find in  "pet store" rats, and to continue my lines.

I have a strong background in science, which helped me fall in love with the genetics involved in breeding rats.  This makes it a thrill when I breed two rats, expect certain outcomes, and get the occasional "odd" result. Then I get to go back in the pedigree, and try and find where the genes came from!  But keep in mind, my rats are pets first, this isn't a science experiment.  I love the genetics involved in this, but I breed to improve upon the rat health/temperment, not to satisfy my scientific curiosities. 

A spare bedroom in my home has been converted into my "rat room".  My ratties reside mostly in Martins cages filled with hammocks, litterpans, igloos, tubes,  shredded newpaper (non-toxic ink, of course) and many cardboard boxes to nest in.  I have several Martin's R-695's, R-680, a Ferret Nation, and aquariums/conveted bins for mating/ nurseries/and hospitals.  I also have smaller wire cages for seperating litter mates when they reach 5 weeks, and a couple medium sized Quality cages.

I use different types of bedding:  Good Mews in litter boxes and now also on the bottom of the cage floor. (my kiddos are pretty good about using their litter boxes, which makes freshening the cage up really quick and easy!), and aspen or carefresh for newborns and for "hospital" bedding. 

My ratties have a diet that usually consists of a dry mix made of 60% Harlan Lab blocks and 40 of a mix (similar to SUBEE Diet and the ROUS Diet) of dry pasta, whole grain cereals (kashi and other good brands), oatmeal, wheat & bran flakes, pumpkin seeds, banana chips, sunflower seeds, dried cranberries whole wheat and tritricale flakes, and other types of oats, cereals, and a low protien low fat dog food.  They also get fresh veggies (kale, bok choy, raddicchio, broccoli, peas, beans,etc.), fruit (berries, melons, etc.) and some other "people food" such as rice, pasta, chicken (and bones of course!), whole wheat bread, and sweet potatos.

In regards to breeding, I pick the sweetest rats, with the best health to breed. I also try to breed for certain colors and types when possible.  My girls are never bred before 6 months of age, I usually wait until they are 8-109months old to ensure temperament and health.  I try to wait to breed my boys until they are at least 9 months old, to help eliminate any chance of aggression issues showing up after they "mature" around 6 months of age.  I currently have a handful of rats I have decided are "not breedable" and they will reside here as pets until they cross the Rainbow Bridge.

I only breed if I can reasonably keep every single baby if necessary. This is because there are times when I cant always find homes for all the babies in a litter, and I will keep every baby if need be for their lifetime or until I find them a suitable home. Due to this my breeding plans may need to change/adjust/or be reduced from time to time. That is the only way to responsibly breed (as I will not drop the babies off at petshops or at shelters, sell as feeders, or adopt out to unsuitable homes).

My goals for my rats is primarly health and temperment, but I now also am working to improve their color, and faces/head, body type and ear type to fit standards more...this is of course the last priority but is also something to focus on.

Please check out pics of my ratties on the site, and check out current litters if you are looking to adopt.